Mountain culture, past the folklore
Alpine culture gets flattened into costume and cowbells for visitors, which is a shame, because the actual thing is stranger and better: valleys speaking languages spoken nowhere else, a painting tradition that survives on chapel walls, hotels that have collected seriously for a century, and a contemporary art scene that has quietly settled in places like the Engadin.
This section covers hotels whose collections are worth the detour, museums and foundations that reward a morning off the slopes, and the festivals and traditions that still belong to the people who live there. It also covers what happens when a hotel commissions rather than buys — some of the most interesting alpine art of the last decade sits in buildings you can book.
Start from a place if that is easier: Switzerland, Italy, France.