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Hotels with real collections, alpine museums worth a morning, and the cultural life of mountain valleys beyond the folklore.

What the experts say

Mountain culture, past the folklore

Alpine culture gets flattened into costume and cowbells for visitors, which is a shame, because the actual thing is stranger and better: valleys speaking languages spoken nowhere else, a painting tradition that survives on chapel walls, hotels that have collected seriously for a century, and a contemporary art scene that has quietly settled in places like the Engadin.

This section covers hotels whose collections are worth the detour, museums and foundations that reward a morning off the slopes, and the festivals and traditions that still belong to the people who live there. It also covers what happens when a hotel commissions rather than buys — some of the most interesting alpine art of the last decade sits in buildings you can book.

Start from a place if that is easier: Switzerland, Italy, France.

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Where to base yourself in each alpine destination, area by area, chosen and written by our editors.

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